Traja Mušketieri

The vaulted main dining area at Traja Mušketieri

The vaulted main dining area at Traja Mušketieri

It had been a long time in coming. Circumstances had thwarted us from visiting Traja Mušketieri, Bratislava’s medieval-themed Slovak restaurant, on many an occasion. Now we were to be thwarted no more… although its location, on one of the elegant old back streets behind the Presidential palace, can be hard to find.

As you descend into the vaulted interior to be greeted by courteous waitresses clad in medieval garb you might be forgiven for thinking of the anachronism: the traja mušketieri (aka three musketeers, of course) were 17th century, right, not medieval? OK – so let’s call the theme here “century-old” or “swashbuckling days of yore” perhaps.

When you pull up a pew at one of the heavy-set banquet tables inside, though, you’ll soon start to focus your attention on the food itself. Or let your eyes wander over the swords mounted on the walls, the old tapestries, the very fetching (but definitely medieval-looking) tankards… the cosy old-world charm, in short. And the service – which is anything but medieval. It’s actually one of the things that make the place. These staff are – by Slovakia’s “on a learning curve” standards and by English standards too, which certainly fall in the lower echelons of European table service – professional, polite, friendly and competent. They know the menu, they know which meals to recommend for dietary requirements, they know which wines to recommend for which dishes, they’ll speak English too.

Onto the food. Pretty expensive by the city’s standards but if my bank balance permits I have no problem with paying for the extra quality. I went for a deer in cranberry sauce with chantarelle buns; my girlfriend for a thick juicy fillet of steak with those delicious soft-roasted rosemary potatoes Slovakia does so well. The food was really good – those chantarelle buns particularly were divinely fluffy. And for a starter, Traja Mušketieri’s pate is justifiably renowned. What I liked best is that this restaurant is happy to offer Slovak classics with a touch of classy creativity, rather than compromise and have a menu peppered by, say, French dishes which is a trend in many good Bratislava restaurants.

Deer in cranberry sauce with chantarelle buns

Deer in cranberry sauce with chantarelle buns

It was, overall, a really good eating-out experience in Bratislava. What I would say, though, is that I do not understand why you have to pay prices that would not look amiss in a central London restaurant (12-19 Euros for mains) to get good food and courteous service. Because when you start paying much below that in Bratislava (the average main meal cost in the city is probably 5-8 Euros) one of those two essential tests of quality start slipping a little when you’re talking about evening meals. So well done Traja Mušketieri for getting it pretty much right, and here’s to hoping more will follow the high standards.

LOCATION: Sládkovičova 7 (see the website for map and reservations – although reservations I would say are only necessary on Fridays or Saturdays – the place was only a third full when we were there in mid-evening)

OPENING: 11am-11pm every day.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Mid-evening, around 8-9pm.

 

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